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Gaines County, on the southern High Plains of West Texas,
is bordered on the west by New Mexico, on the south by Andrews
County, on the east by Dawson County, and on the north by Yoakum
and Terry counties. Its center point is at 32°45' north latitude
and 102°57' west longitude, about eighty miles southwest
of Lubbock. The county was named for James Gaines,qv a merchant who signed the Texas Declaration of Independence.qv Gaines County covers 1,489 square miles of rolling land that drains
to scattered playasqv and draws. Sandy loam and sandy soils lie over the county's red-clay
subsoil and support a growth of mesquite, shinnery, and catclaw.
Cedar Lake (called Laguna Salinas by the Spanish), in northeastern
Gaines County, is the largest salt lake on the Texas plains. The
county's elevation ranges from 3,000 to 3,600 feet above sea level,
and its annual average rainfall is 15.83 inches. The average minimum
temperature in January is 16° F; the average maximum in July
is 94°. The county has a 210-day growing season. The agricultural
components of the local economy earn about $92 million annually
from cotton (Gaines County ranks second among cotton-producing
counties in Texas), sorghums, vegetables, peanuts, sunflowers,
peaches, pecans, cattle, sheep, and hogs. Irrigated land amounts
to about 400,000 acres. Gaines County is also one of the state's
leading oil counties; it produced 42,810,261 barrels in 1990.
The area was Comanche country until the United States
Army campaigns of 1875 and 1876. An Indian burial mound has been
excavated near Cedar Lake. It is believed that Quanah Parker,qv the last great Comanche chief, was born in the vicinity. Cedar
Lake was also the site of a skirmish between Indians and United
States cavalrymen in October 1875. Buffalo hunters moved into
the region in the 1870s, and some of them began ranches and remained
in the area after their game had disappeared; the land was plush
with grama grasses but limited in surface water. In 1876 the Texas
legislature formed Gaines County from Bexar County. Gaines County
was attached to Bexar County for administrative purposes in 1876,
then to Shackelford County in 1877 and to Martin County in 1885.
As early as 1879 ranchman C. C. Slaughterqv ran herds on much of eastern Gaines County from his headquarters
at Rattlesnake Canyon. C. C. Meddin, who moved his family and
herd to Gaines County in 1880, was the first permanent settler;
the United States census reported only eight people in the county
in 1880. In the 1880s and 1890s other ranchers moved into the
area, including C. M. Breckon, the Brunson brothers, Bill Anderson,
Dave Ernest, Robinson and Winfield Scott of the Hat Ranch, C.
Bill Higgins of the Wishbone Ranch, J. E. Millhollon of the MH
Ranch, and the several owners of the Triangle H Triangle north
of Seminole. Until the early twentieth century cattle raising
was the only industry in the county. The population was sixty-eight
in 1890 and fifty-five in 1900, when six ranches and 16,432 cattle
were reported by the agricultural census.
Farming began to develop in the county after 1904,
thanks to the sale of railroad land and the 1895 School Land Act,
which gave settlers the right to purchase one section of agricultural
land at two dollars an acre and three sections of grassland at
one dollar an acre. Although mesquiteqv was not as widespread then as now, farmers had to clear shinnery
and mesquite from the land before planting. As more people were
moving into the area, the county was formally organized in 1905,
with the new town of Seminole designated as the county seat. A
courthouse was built in the town in 1906 and a jail in 1907. By
1910, 206 farms and ranches, encompassing 500,772 acres, had been
established in Gaines County; about 2,700 acres was planted in
corn, the area's most important crop at that time, and farmers
had planted more than 2,000 fruit trees (mostly peach). Ranching
still dominated the local economy, however: almost 32,250 cattle
were counted in Gaines County that year. The expanding population
reflected the developing economy; by 1910 the county had 1,255
residents.
Rail transportation was delayed until the Santa Fe
reached Seagraves in 1917. Until then, food had to be hauled by
wagon seventy miles from Midland, and cattle had to be driven
to Midland or Amarillo and shipped from there by rail. In spite
of the county's new rail connection, however, an extended drought
in 1917 and 1918 drove out some of the earlier settlers; by 1920
only 140 farms remained in the county, and its population had
declined to 1,018. Farming took hold during the 1920s, primarily
because of a sudden boom in cotton cultureqv in the area. Only 8 acres in Gaines County was planted in cotton
in 1910, and only 485 as late as 1920. By 1929, however, 20,566
acres of the county was devoted to the crop. At the same time,
sorghum and corn cultureqqv also rose significantly, to 56,500 acres by 1929. The number of
farms in Gaines County rose quickly during the 1920s, particularly
during the first half of the decade: by 1925, 436 farms had been
established in the county. Meanwhile, cattle ranching continued
at a significant level, though declining in its actual and relative
importance to the local economy. In 1929, almost 20,300 cattle
were counted in the area.
Many local farmers were devastated during the 1930s
as they suffered through the effects of the Dust Bowl and the
Great Depression.qqv Many left their farms to look elsewhere for better economic opportunities;
between 1929 and 1935 the number of farmers who fully owned their
land dropped almost 50 percent, to only eighty-three. The landscape
presented a dismal sight, as sand mounds twenty to thirty feet
high and thirty to fifty feet wide were formed by winds that drove
vegetation against fences and piled up sand drifts on it. Such
sand mounds often surrounded fields that had lost their topsoil
to expose a surface of unproductive, hard red clay. Cotton production
dropped significantly during the 1930s, and by 1940 only 5,580
acres in the county was devoted to growing the crop. Cropland
harvested in the county declined from about 56,500 acres in 1929
to 54,732 acres in 1940. Some of the worst effects of the Dust
Bowl and the depression, however, were offset by the discovery
of oil during the 1930s. Drillers first sought oil in the county
in 1912 near Cedar Lake, then tried there again in 1918-19 without
success. In 1926 the Humble Oil Company (later Exxonqv)
leased more than 100,000 acres in the western part of the county
at fifty cents an acre. Farmers took this lease bounty with wonder
and gratitude; leasing continued between 1927 and 1929, and prices
rose in some places to ten dollars an acre. Actual oil production
was not achieved in the county until 1935. In 1936 drillers found
the Seminole Pool at 5,000 to 6,000 feet. Other discoveries followed,
and in 1938 more than 650,109 barrels of crude was taken from
county wells. Thanks to the oil boom, the population of the county
increased significantly during the 1930s to reach 8,136 by 1940.
The 1940s also saw a revival of agriculture sparked
by new irrigation techniques. Farmers abandoned the flood method
of irrigation because the sandy soil would not hold the water,
and began utilizing the vast stores of underground water with
sprinkler irrigation. Mechanization also helped turn what had
been a desolate area into a blooming garden. Tractors and other
machinery displaced the old technique of plowing one row at a
time behind a team of horses. By the mid-1970s Gaines County
had 1,093 cotton farms, 1,023 feed-grain farms, 162 wheat farms,
121 peanut farms, and other farms that grew peaches, pecans, potatoes,
beans, and other crops. As an illustration of the size and breadth
of agriculture in the county, the United States agricultural census
of 1982 reported production of 2,470,350 bushels of sorghum and
1,488,504 bushels of wheat. The county that year ranked first
in the state in cotton production with 186,112 bales, fourth in
peanuts with 23,895,785 pounds, and sixth in alfalfa production
with 23,642 tons. There were also 32,878 cattle and 645 acres
of orchards. Irrigated land amounted to 400,000 acres.
Oil production has continued to play an important
role in the county's economy. In 1948 crude production totaled
more than 15,663,000 barrels and in 1956, more than 24,395,000
barrels. By the 1970s there were seventeen oilfields scattered
over the county, with 1,600 wells producing at from 5,000 to 14,000
feet. Production was almost 60,707,000 barrels in 1978 and about
47,522,000 barrels in 1982. The county produced almost 42,686,000
barrels in 1990. By January 1991, 1,670,602,104 barrels of petroleum
had been taken from Gaines County since 1936.
After a half century of voting Democratic, the county
gave a majority of its votes to Republican candidates in seven
of the eleven presidential races from 1952 to 1992. In the 1992
election county voters supported Republican George H. W. Bush
over Democrat William J. Clinton by almost a two-to-one margin.
Between 1952 and 1988 county voters supported Republicans in four
out of fourteen senatorial races and two of fourteen gubernatorial
contests. In the mid-1980s Gaines County had three banks with
more than $79 million in assets. The county also had a number
of businesses, many associated with the oil industry and agriculture.
The population of the county gradually increased after the 1940s,
rising to 8,909 in 1950, 12,267 in 1960, 11,593 in 1970, and 13,150
in 1980. In 1990 the county had a population of 14,123, of which
almost a third was Hispanic. U.S. Highways 180 (west to east)
and 385 (north to south) are the major roads. Communities include
Seagraves (1990 population, 2,398), Ashmore, Higginbotham, and
Loop. Seminole (1990 population, 6,342) is the largest town, market
center, and county seat. An Amish settlement has developed near
Seminole. The community has its own school and church and maintains
its agrarian religious traditions. Most of the Amish farmers moved
to Texas from Mexico, where regulations against foreign ownership
of land had become burdensome.
BIBLIOGRAPHY: Gaines County Historical Survey Committee,
The Gaines County Story, ed. Margaret Coward (Seagraves,
Texas: Pioneer, 1974). .
William R. Hunt
This information comes from the Texas State Historical Association
Handbook of Texas Online.
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