|
Coke County, in West Central Texas, is bounded on the east
by Runnels County, on the south by Tom Green County, on the west
by Sterling County, and on the north by Mitchell and Nolan counties.
It was named for Richard Coke,qv a Texas governor. The county center is at 31°54' north latitude
and 100°33' west longitude, about thirty miles north of San
Angelo. The terrain includes prairie, hills, and the Colorado
River valley; sandy loam and red soils predominate. The elevation
varies from 1,800 feet in the south to 2,600 feet in the north,
where Nipple Mountain, Meadow Mountain, Horse Mountain, and Hayrick
Mountain are located. Its 911-square-mile area is drained by the
north branch of the Colorado River and Yellow Wolf Creek. Native
grasses include mesquite grass, needlegrass, sideoats, bunchgrass,
and crabgrass. Ninety percent of Coke County's agricultural income
of $10 million comes from cattle, sheep, goats, and horses. The
rest is from cotton, sorghum, small grains, hay, fruits, and peanuts.
Coke County is among the leading counties in sheep ranching.qv Extraction of sand and gravel is a minor industry, though the
county has no manufacturing; county oil production of 2,249,804
barrels in 1982 earned almost $77 million. The annual rainfall
is 20.48 inches. The average minimum temperature in January is
29° F; the maximum in July is 97°. The growing season
lasts 226 days.
From about 1700 to the 1870s, Comanche Indians ranged
the area that is now Coke County. They competed with the Tonkawa
Indians to the east and the Lipans to the west for dominance of
the Edwards Plateauqv and Colorado River valley. In 1851 Fort Chadbourne, in the northeast
part of the future county, was established by the United States
Army to protect the frontier; the fort was manned until the Civil
War.qv The Butterfield Overland Mailqv ran through the area from 1858 to 1861.
Between 1860 and the early 1880s the only settlers
in what became Coke County were ranchers attracted to open grazing
land. J. J. Austin established his ranch headquarters near Sanco
in 1875, and Pate Francher settled in the area in 1877, after
he drove a cattle herd for John Austin and Joe McConnel to the
Odom Ranch near Sanco. In 1882 the Texas and Pacific Railway began
providing service to San Angelo, and settlers started coming into
the region in somewhat larger numbers. Severe drought in the 1880s
led to fence cuttingqv and its attendant quarreling, particularly on L. B. Harris's ranch:
when landless cattlemen found that Harris had fenced in waterholes
on the range, they destroyed $6,000 worth of his posts and wire.
State authorities eventually settled the disputes.
The Texas legislature established Coke County in
1889, carving it out of territory previously assigned to Tom Green
County; the county was organized that same year, with Hayrick
as county seat. In 1889 the county's first newspaper, the Hayrick
Democrat, began publication; shortly thereafter it was
renamed the Rustler. By 1890 there were 163 farms and ranches
in the county, and 2,059 people lived there. Only about 4,000
acres of the county was classified by the census as "improved"
at this time. Ranchingqv dominated the local economy, and 13,806 cattle were counted in
Coke County that year.
In 1891, after an election, the new town of Robert
Lee became the county seat; Robert E. Leeqv had once served at Fort Chadbourne. That same year, the county's
newspaper moved to the new county seat and was renamed the Robert
Lee Observer. Early settlers named a new town Bronte, after
English writer Charlotte Brontë; another was named Tennyson,
in honor of the English laureate. By 1900, 480 farms and ranches
had been established in the county, encompassing 605,842 acres.
That year more than 46,000 cattle and about 17,500 sheep were
counted in Coke County. Farming had also grown, for about 4,200
acres were planted in corn and almost 7,000 acres were devoted
to cotton.
In 1907, when the Kansas City, Mexico and Orient
Railway built tracks north out of San Angelo, the little towns
of Tennyson, Bronte, and Fort Chadbourne lay near the line, and
residents moved their business centers to enjoy the benefits of
transportation. The county seat, Robert Lee, was not on the tracks,
but managed to survive nonetheless.
In the first years of the twentieth century cotton
cultureqv expanded significantly. By 1910 cotton was planted on more than
29,600 acres in Coke County; by 1920 cotton acreage had declined
only slightly, to about 28,200 acres. Cotton production plunged
sharply during the 1920s, however, apparently because of a boll
weevilqv infestation, and by 1929 county farmers planted only 5,321 acres
with cotton. These fluctuations in cotton production seem related
to changes in the county's population that took place at about
the same time. In 1910, near the height of the cotton boom in
the county, 969 farms and ranches had been established in the
county, and the population had grown since 1900 to 6,412. By 1920,
after cotton production had begun to decline, there were only
721 farms and ranches in the area, and the county's population
had dropped to 4,557. By 1925, as cotton production continued
to drop, the number of farms had declined to 636.
But farmers were expanding their production of corn,
wheat, and sorghum; in 1929 they harvested more than 55,300 acres
of cropland in the county. Thousands of fruit trees were also
planted during this time, and by 1920 about 18,000 fruit trees,
including almost 14,000 peach trees, were growing in Coke County.
Meanwhile, cattle ranching remained an important part of the economy.
Though the number of cattle declined during the 1910s, by 1929
almost 31,000 cattle were grazing in the county. The number of
farms and ranches in the county increased from 636 to 838 between
1925 and 1929. Meanwhile, the population of the county also began
to recover; by 1930 there were 5,253 people living in the county.
The momentum of this recovery was lost during the
Great Depressionqv of the 1930s. Cropland harvested in Coke County dropped more than
10 percent between 1930 and 1940, and the number of farms in the
area fell again to 756. Hundreds of people left during the depression,
and by 1940 only 4,593 remained.
Prospects for the local economy were greatly improved
after 1942, however, when oil was discovered in the county. In
November and December 1946, Sun Oil drilled the discovery well
in the Jameson field in the northwest section of the county. In
November 1948, Humble Oil Company (now Exxonqv)
opened the Bronte field in the eastern part of the county. In
1949 numerous wells were drilled, and the Bronte and Fort Chadbourne
fields were proved. The latter field was shut down for thirteen
months from February 1952 by the Railroad Commissionqv to stop gas flaring. Production was resumed after the Lone Star
Producing Company built a $3 million gas processing plant to utilize
gas that was being wasted. Other oilfields drilled in the early
1950s included the North Bronte Multipay field; the McCutchen
field, and the Wendkirk field. Production rose steadily into the
1950s but then began to drop. In 1948, Coke County produced almost
1,082,500 barrels of petroleum; in 1958, more than 12,795,000
barrels; in 1960, about 7,265,000; in 1978, almost 2,605,000;
and in 1980, about 2,250,000. In 1990, production totaled 1,331,036
barrels. By 1991, since discovery in 1942, 209,281,131 barrels
had been taken from Coke County lands. Tax money derived from
oil profits helped the county to improve public services for its
citizens. Modern schools were built in Bronte and Robert Lee;
meanwhile, paving, road construction, and bridge improvements
were made throughout the county. Oil money also helped to provide
the county with a new courthouse, parks, and swimming pools.
The Robert Lee Dam, completed in 1969, impounded
the E. V. Spence Reservoir which covers 14,950 acres and holds
488,750 acre-feet of water. Besides giving the Robert Lee area
a reliable water supply, the lake is a valuable recreation site
for fishermen, boaters, and swimmers. State highways 208 and 158
cross the county from north to south and east to west respectively,
and U.S. Highway 277 crosses north-south through the eastern part
of the county. Oil production accounts for the major share of
income for the county. Income derived from its production is several
times more than the county's income from agriculture. In the 1980s,
Coke County maintained some 70,000 sheep and lambs and 30,000
cattle, along with smaller numbers of other livestock. About 500
acres were irrigated, and the county produced 47,000 bushels of
wheat and more than 20,000 bushels of sorghum. Politically the
county is stable in its voting habits; it was one of the sixty-two
Texas counties that were still legally dry in 1986. By the late
1980s, Coke County had voted Democratic in every gubernatorial
election since the 1950s, and had deviated to the Republican side
only twice in presidential and senatorial elections (in 1972 and
1984.) The county's smaller communities include Bronte, Blackwell
(partly in Nolan County), Sanco, Silver, and Tennyson. Robert
Lee is the county seat and largest town. Recreation in the county
centers around hunting and fishing at Lake Spence and Oak Creek
Reservoir.qv
BIBLIOGRAPHY: Coke County Book Committee, Coke
County (Lubbock: Specialty Publishing Company, 1984). Jewell
G. Pritchett, From the Top of Old Hayrick: A Narrative History
of Coke County (Abilene, Texas: Pritchett, 1980). Jessie Newton
Yarbrough, A History of Coke County, Home of the Rabbit Twisters:
The Early Years to 1953 (1979).
William R. Hunt and John Leffler
This information comes from the Texas State Historical Association
Handbook of Texas Online.
|